Bregaglia, with its three alpine valleys Forno, Albigna and Bondasca, is every Although the valleys differ, they all offer a great choice of climbing walls, with. A lot of rock climbing can be accessed by a Swiss cable car to a dam. you can haul up a pile of gear and bivvy to get. a few days climbing done. Swiss Rock: granite Bregaglia. Author Chris Mellor Published Void () ISBN Review. + page guide book to rock climbing in the Albigna.

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We’re part of the REI Co-op family, where a life outdoors is a life well lived. The Via Cassinor simply “Cassin”, is now a frequently-ascended but much sought-after “tick” for the Alpine climber. Lloydfletch – on 29 May Any om the cassin? I haven’t seen any mention of it in the guide i have or the maps.

About 3 hr hike from town. The walk back to Switzerland via the Porcellizzo and Trubinasca passes is gruelling but possibly worth doing for the scenery: It’s an open groove followed by a steep climning then an easy traverse out right. Although regarded as one of the great Alpine north faces it is also considered bregglia easiest.

Brass Nipples on 19 May Once at the summit we considered making a dash for the nearby bivouac refuge but, almost miraculously, the storm clouds moved climbkng to the North and evening sunshine greeted us at the summit monument which was still fizzing with static electricity.

You can zoom in and see the map. If you can manage gregaglia easily in a day wearing rucksacks and have spent a few day acclimatising, you should be well prepared.

The ledge is large and comforting and was currently accommodating the majority of our companions waiting for teams above them to complete the crux. This has caused a path and a hut to be closed and several routes to be made dangerous to climb.

Climbin managed it, obviously, but maybe we were just lucky bregalia weather reports had suggested storms later in the afternoon, and if these had moved whilst we were on the face then it would have been a very different story. Hastily I took the lead and got another pitch under our belt. Friends of mine encountered the same problem on top of the Sciora Dafora, which resulted in a shiver bivy and epic slog towards the Albigna hut. Aim for conversational ability in at least three languages.


PDF guide to selected climbs format guide to the crown jewel of the Bregaglia’s granite climbing; the Bondasca valley containing the Sciora peaks, the Cengalo and Brfgaglia Badile.

UKC Logbook – Swiss Rock: granite Bregaglia

Dan Affsprung – on 20 May There is an out of date but useful guide to the area. In reply to Dan Affsprung: The face kept coming at us until the very last, with another pitch culminating in a strenuous pull onto the ridge. Loads of excellent photodiagrams and detailed line topos and plenty of colour action shots.

Cassin Route on Piz Badile and There were about five teams, mostly Italian or Swiss, heading for the Cassin climbihg others for the North Ridge. I would therefore suggest that, if restricted to the UK for training, you should seek out multi-pitch routes on mountain crags and aim to climb several cpimbing a day.

You Pre-Order is prioritised at no additional bregaglua ; meaning that, as soon as the product arrives with us, we can wrap it straight back up and get it sent out to you – it often never even hits brrgaglia stock room shelves! Sign Up or Log In. For approach there are like a hundred topos available online. Info Bregglia Title My message Close. Technical Information Back to top. Walk takes from parking at Laret. There were still a couple of teams above us in the chimneys – they seemed to be moving quite slowly.

Obviously we can’t give any details regarding the North Ridge option other than to say we were warned off it by many people including the guardian at the Sasc Fura hut.

In reply to Dan Take the cable car up to the dam, some bolted slabs just off the path on the left as you head up should get you used to the grades. Hearts pounding and lungs pumping, legs leaden, we wondered how on earth were we going to do cclimbing in the early hours of tomorrow morning with a full rucksack then go on to do a massive Alpine face?


But a lot of the good climbing starts in Swtizerland!

All the other teams had now disappeared and I felt very isolated on this vast face. One and a half hours walk from here to the Sasc Fura refuge.

Where’s the cable car? Any and all help appreciated. For Cassin you want to wait a bit until the snowfield at the base clears somewhat. Acclimatisation might have helped speed our climbing, however the best way to improve your speed on long routes is to practice doing them!

Success Main Title My message Close. Clouds were swirling up from the Cengalo and the upper part of the face was obscured.

Bregaglia Climbing 2018: Sciora Badile PDF

Every year, avid mountain climbers from around the world meet here to find new routes climbibg this wild mountain landscape. The topos in the Alpine Club guide and the Bregaglia Climbing guide available online describe the original route, which has now been superseded with a version featuring longer pitch lengths and an alternative finish that avoids the grotty rock of the original.

Piz Badile, North-E Wall. Area Difficulty Popularity Name. Both give discounts for members of affiliated clubs such as the Austrian Alpine Club. Switzerland easier than Italy.

Mountaineering and Climbing – Bregaglia Engadin Turismo

Well, the huts are great, but very expensive. It feels a sustained UK HVS 5a but, remember, this is at altitude wearing a rucksack with another 10 pitches to go. British Climbing’s Great Challenges.